Grand Canyon R2R Adventure Part 6: Hiking Up Up Up the Bright Angel Trail

 A major rule for hiking into the Grand Canyon: The descent is optional; hiking up and out is mandatory! 

Map of the significant waypoints along the Bright Angel Trail.  

River Resthouse: Elevation = 2,800 ft. Distance Traveled = 16 miles

Starting at the River Resthouse, we turned away from the Colorado River and began the 8 mile ascent on the Bright Angel Trail up to the South Rim of the canyon.  At this point we had been hiking for almost 11 hours and had gone 16 miles.  My GPS watch decided that it had had enough of tracing the hike and shut off (grumble!!!).  It would be approximately a 3 miles ascent hike up to our next rest and snack spot, Indian Garden.  For me, it was mentally the hardest section of the hike.  It was rainy.  I was starting to get tired and hungry again.  My legs were transitioning from using descending and braking muscles to ascending power muscles.  

After leaving the River Resthouse, the  Bright Angel Trail winds along the Pipe River Creek.  It had been raining steadily at this point, so we were navigating around (sometimes through) the muddy puddles that had accumulated along the stairs of the trail.  Luckily, our trail shoes kept us from slipping and my waterproof shoes kept my feet dry! 

After about a mile of hiking, the trail starts a series of very steep switchbacks known as the Devil's Corkscrew.  It felt amazing to power up a switchback and then look down at the trail below from which we had ascended.  The rain clouds with the canyon features were almost other-worldly.  It made us think of the Lord of the Rings and we pretended that we were on a quest with Frodo and the dwarves, hobbits, and men in the Fellowship of of the Ring.  

The switchbacks in the Devil's Corkscrew. 

Ali taking a much-needed stretch break! 

After powering through Devil's Corkscrew, the trail began to follow Garden Creek which would keep us company up to near the South Rim. The trail here was surrounded by beautiful black "basement rock" formations combined with lush vegetation at the creek's edge. 

A selfie of Clara with on the trail next to Garden Creek.  

Tapeats Sandstone

Periodic small waterfalls were present running into the creek next to the trail. 

The Tapeats Narrows with creek gorge.  

Within the Bright Angel Shale formation near the Tonto Platform. 

A look back as we entered Indian Garden as we stand on the Tonto Platform. 

Indian Garden: Elevation = 3,800 ft. Distance Traveled = 19.3 miles

The Indian Garden area was cultivated by the Havasupai Indians until the arrival of the first European Americans.  It is home to the the pump house and impressive setup that delivers water from Roaring Springs to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon.  The Garden features groves of Cottonwoods - a lovely oasis at which to take a much-needed rest and food break.  Additionally, the rain had cleared off and the sun was out and starting to set, giving us an indication of the amazing sunset sights we were going to experience as we ascended the last 5 miles of the trip.  

Temperature Gauge at Indian Garden.  Did I mention that we really lucked out with the weather on this hike???

A much-needed rest and food break!!!

The beauty of the South Rim and the cottonwood trees at Indian Garden as the sun started to set.  

3-Mile Resthouse: Elevation =  4,720 ft. Distance Traveled = 20.8 miles 

We wanted to minimize hiking in the dark for our last 4 miles as much as possible, so after about 20 minutes, we were back underway.  We did not think that the trip could get any more amazing, but of course it did.  We passed the campground and last ranger station along the hike and could look up to the switchbacks of Jacob's Ladder at which sits the 3-Mile Resthouse. We did not stop at the Resthouse for a break.  We just kept going! 

1.5-mile Resthouse: Elevation = 5,720 ft. Distance Traveled = 22.3 miles

As we hiked from the 3-mile Resthouse to the 1.5 mile Resthouse, the sun started to set in full and we  made ourselves stop at each switchback to look up to enjoy the color changes within the canyon and the clouds.  Beautiful!!!

The colors as the sun set were just outstanding! 

A zoom in picture towards the North Rim where a stray low-lying cloud floats among the canyon formations.  

The darkness came upon us quickly as we ascended from the 1.5 miles resthouse to the canyon rim.  With about a mile left to go in our hike, we stopped to dig our headlamps back out of our backs and turn them on.  (It had seemed like days had passed since we were hiking with them on early that morning.) As we hiked up that last mile, sore, hungry, and tired; we were in for one last treat! A mostly clear sky over the rim framed an almost full moon as well as bright Jupiter and Saturn above.  Simply- WOW!!!!

Bright Angel Trailhead: Elevation = 6,840 ft. Distance Traveled = 24 miles, Total Travel Time (with breaks) = 15.5 hours 

And WE DID IT!!!  We descended into and successfully crossed and climbed out of the Grand Canyon.  What an amazing experience with a wonderful group of friends.  These are definitely memories that I will cherish for the rest of my life!  I hope that you enjoyed following our journey.  I look forward going back with Derek and the boys in the future and exploring the inside of the canyon again, perhaps with a stay at Phantom Ranch or at one of the campgrounds.  

Scott Seaman, Ali Seaman, Tommi Miller, Lorra Williams, and Clara McDonald at the Bright Angel Trailhead after hiking the North Rim to South Rim of the Grand Canyon on September 18, 2021.  

And last but not least - After hiking yet another half mile to the car, we drove out of the park to Tusayan, AZ, got cleanup up a bit as not to scare locals and tourists, and enjoyed THE BEST PIZZA EVER at the We Make Pizza and Pasta Restaurant (yes that is the actual name of the place- ha!).  

For future reference, here is my packing list for the hike: 

Food: 

Smoothie (for early breakfast pre-hike)

Breakfast granola bar

Mini Cliff Bars: 2

Small bag of celery sticks

To-go applesauce: 2

Jif Peanut Butter To-Go Cups: 2

Walmart Fruit Snacks: 4

Walmart Fruit Twists: 4

Marinated Tuna Packets: 2

Flour Street Taco Tortillas: 4

Small bag of pretzels

Small bag of pickles

Small bag of trail mix 

Small bag of beef jerky sticks

Gatorade powder drink mix packets (or other electrolyte powder): 6

Energy gels such as GU or Honey Stinger : 2

Supplies:

Tent/ Sleeping bag/Sleeping pad (for camping only)

Trail shoes (or hiking boots)

Thermal jacket

Hiking tank top, shorts, underwear, socks

Hiking pants (optional, not needed for this trip)

Fanny Pack to carry easy access essentials

ID/Medical Insurance Card/ Credit Card/ Cash

Hiking backpack/water pack with rain shield

Pack light

3L water bladder, filled

Water filter/straw

Extra 2L bladder for use with water filter, if needed

1L water bottle filled with gatorade (or other electrolye drink) 

Map

Hiking waypoints mileage and info card, laminated

First aid kit 

Hiking hat

Hiking poles

Biking gloves (for use with poles)

Sunglasses 

Bandana to keep ears warm when cold  and/or wipe nose & sweat when hot 

Cooling bandana (e.g. Frogg Toggs mini instant cooling pad towel)

Ibuprofen

Headlamp

Extra batteries for headlamp

Wet Wipes packet

Small Trowel (to bury waste, if needed)

Travel toilet paper

Kleenex packet

Small hand sanitizer

Travel poncho

Extra ziplock baggies (e.g. to pack trash, etc)

Sunscreen

Chapstick

Space Blanket

Extra Contacts

Eye drops

Extra pair of socks

Phone/Phone charging cord/ Battery Pack

Toothbrush/Toothpaste

Small deoderant